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29 November 2023 at 10:43 pm #820546
My top is SYP at 4.5″ thick and Darren is right to bring up concerns about holdfasts holding. I had to up-size to 1″ diameter holdfasts to get them to grab. The 3/4″ I had were not long enough to work and I think they were deflecting too much as well.
25 October 2023 at 2:40 pm #817250You absolutely can. Simply from an economic standpoint, it can be a good choice. I wouldn’t think twice about doing it. I’ve seen many antique examples of hardwood drawer fronts paired with pine or poplar (technically hardwood) sides and backs.
As Darren mentions repeated test fitting can aesthetically damage the joint, but structurally you shouldn’t have trouble.
1 July 2023 at 7:43 pm #806095Regarding the failure: Based on the failure location, I think the tongue of the panels was too long.
Either mahogany or cherry will work well, neither is that different from the other for this application. Sometimes the mahogany will tearout more easily than cherry would. But, mahogany is not as “chippy” as cherry can be. If you stick to straight-grained woods, you should have good luck with most anything.
15 May 2023 at 4:45 pm #801420I do not spend time making perfect dovetails. I have numerous demands on my time and refuse to sweat the details of every single operation. However, my dovetails are still quite good and I’d compare them favorably to most other craftspersons.
As a general rule, I am an “all precision [u][i][b]necessary[/b][/i][/u]” woodworker. I would rather have a room full of 90% perfect furniture than a single “flawless” piece. I work the show surfaces to as perfect a state as I think is necessary and have no qualms about leaving plane tracks, torn grain, pencil lines, etc. on secondary surfaces.
5 March 2023 at 1:03 am #793732Listened to the .wav file. This sounds pretty standard to me. My 5 1/2 Stanley does this pretty regularly on end grain.
Putting the workpiece lower in the vise and oiling the sole makes the problem disappear in my case.
31 January 2023 at 2:10 am #789360Linden (Basswood) is good for practice as well. In my area (Texas) it’s significantly less expensive than pine.
It’s also exceptionally lightweight.
22 December 2022 at 1:51 am #784358Is this a pre-lateral adjuster Stanley? You mentioned you are novice, have you set the lateral adjustment of the iron?
I haven’t run into a “rocking” frog personally. My next step would be to examine the underside of the frog and the bed for damage. You may have a small burr somewhere that is interfering with the frog seating. If yes, you should be able to file the damage away fairly easily.
It’s possible the plane body and frog are from two different planes and aren’t a mated pair. Inspect the frog and bed and confirm both are flat.
21 December 2022 at 10:48 pm #784338Is that the installed position of the frog in your third picture?
That seems to be very far back. I generally have the front edge of my frogs sitting almost on top of the mouth opening.
With the frog that far back, you may be running into issues with the iron contacting the mouth of the plane itself.
10 December 2022 at 2:47 pm #783097It’s your bench, so the ultimate decision is up to you.
I’ve worked off a 2×4 stud bench in my uninsulated garage in Texas for years now. Temps swing from 12-120F (-11-49C) in there over the year and I haven’t had any problems. You’ll probably re-flatten the top after about a year, but that’s it.
Unless you have the setup (machines) necessary to process the large number of cuts you’ll have with the sheet goods, I’d call it unnecessary. Birch ply is also exceedingly expensive where I am. I’d choose spend my money on other items.
29 July 2022 at 2:06 pm #768617I agree with all the items in the Larry’s post. Remember that the shaving coming out of the plane is not the goal.
I do not think a precision lapped plane sole is important because all my pieces are planed, then scraped, and finally sanded before they see the final finish. Plus I work in a garage in Texas, and +/- 40F temperature swings or greater within a day are common. No piece of iron will stay “flat” in that environment.
21 June 2022 at 2:19 pm #764074Very clever tool, great work. The visualization is more valuable to me than the printable option, but I see how that would be useful to some.
I’d like to see something that defines the rake of the dovetails and the ability to toggle between different rakes (ie 6:1 vs 7:1). The tail base width is not something I usually consider.
11 April 2022 at 4:16 pm #755728I’m willing to bet those bark inclusions are the source of your problem.
1 April 2022 at 3:02 pm #754429I guess it’s possible the blade is the issue.
However, my first thought is that the upper wheel adjustment seems off in some way. Are you certain you didn’t give the upper wheel an unintentional whack when changing blades?
Either way swap in a different blade and report back.
26 March 2022 at 11:22 pm #753817As Steve said, a diameter of 15cm pretty small. Any usable boards you get will be pretty small.
Regardless, given that it’s oak, you would be better off splitting and riving the wood than try to use a handsaw. A froe and a maul would make quick work of a tree that size. Riving will also maximize the amount of quartersawn lumber you get out of the effort.
21 February 2022 at 2:22 pm #749601I have a couple of these bits, but they’re smaller diameter. I’d still expect it to cut straight away though.
The pitch on that snail looks pretty aggressive, like it’s actually meant for softwoods and the tip is more blunt than I’d expect from a brand new bit.
Perhaps the larger diameters are different but that snail shouldn’t be ground like that as you said. My versions are the typical geometry you’d expect, not ground at the sides.
In short, I’d send it back and exchange.
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