Avoid tearout when cutting back panel pieces?
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27 March 2014 at 2:40 am #37489
As Paul was gang cross cutting the back pieces, more then once a big chunk broke away. Once Paul said “Ooops”, and then moved on.
For those of use who care about such things, we would appreciate these details being addressed properly. This being a ‘Master Class’, I want to learn the finer points.
I assume the better way of cross cutting wood that already has a profile is to carefully knife around the entire board, including the curved pieces, and not gang cross cut. Is this what Paul would do (if building the White House pieces)? Or do you first cross cut the individual pieces (with knife lines on all four sides) before they have a profile, and then apply the profile.
Is the Master lesson here; cross cut your pieces before applying any kind of edge profile ??? My educated guess would be ‘yes’.
Paul decided to buy the T&G as he figured that is what most members would do. With all the pieces clamped together you could double knife wall around the entire group. Paul could also have used a crosscut saw to reduce breakage. Paul was anticipating some tear out to be hidden in the groove but he maybe did not anticipate some of the larger pieces you mention.You will notice Paul switched to the fine tenon saw part way thru. When he pulled out the panel saw I was surprised he didn’t knife all the way around.
Gang cutting significantly reduced the amount of time to create the back panel. Efficiency in furniture making was critical with early craftsmen. The profile would be ran on the longer boards first and gang cut as Paul did.
2 April 2014 at 6:58 pm #46089[quote quote=46078]
Gang cutting significantly reduced the amount of time to create the back panel. Efficiency in furniture making was critical with early craftsmen. The profile would be ran on the longer boards first and gang cut as Paul did.[/quote]
However, at this point most of us are not working as the early craftsmen did. When I spend my limited available hours building a piece of furniture for the home, I don’t want to see chunks of tearout evident in my work.
I think Paul should strive to work to higher standards for his teaching videos.
I’m paying to learn and to hopefully be inspired to achieve greater results than I’m currently capable of.
3 April 2014 at 8:49 am #46938In this situation one of the tongues was slightly fractured and I felt it loose slightly near the end as I was cutting through the first board into the second. I didn’t stack the boards to “gang cut” for time efficiency but because the stock was thin and made from spruce, which if individually cut would flex away. Combing boards as I did gave me better resistance in the thrust cuts.
4 April 2014 at 12:45 am #47586You always run mouldings first on a long length. Then cut to your required length.
The reason for not putting moulding on finished length is that you can possibly get drop of at the ends.
The matchboard that you buy is only about 3/8″ thick it normally bowed cupped, not the easiest to get together. The groove of the board makes outside edges very thin so very easy to break even with the best intensions. I know I got the video and the T shirt as I have used this type of matchboard a fair bit in the past.
Now with a little bit of hind sight I would do exactly the same as Paul. I would also probably use a finer crosscut saw and also would put a scrap piece of timber say 3/4″ thick under the bottom board to help stop break out. If you did get any break out the groove in the joinery should cover break out. You would always tidy up with a plane.
If you are that concerned you could mark with knife all around each piece and use a bench hook. -
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